Hello again ... after a long break!
I have been stuck in a study for a VERY long time ... and didn't even get to go to Barcelona with Kathryn in August! The excuse was that her camera died the very evening before she left so there was no point in my going as she couldn't take photos of me.
SO I missed out on Sagrada Familia - which is an amazing place (or so I'm told!) It's basically a building site that is going to be a church... what impressed those who were able to go (and who weren't left on a shelf in a study) was the airiness of the place - with columns that looked like trees and raised your eyes to hints of the heavens on the ceilings.
And I didn't get to Parc Guell and hear the music in the park - or see the walkways and arcades - or hear baroque and classical pieces in what would have been a market place...
And I didn't get to the Cathedral - or St Pau le Camp - or to the Museum of Catalan Art - or the Olympic Stadium - or Poble Espanyol (a really interesting place with lots of examples of Spanish houses) - or the beach - or Montserrat - or see the lights and water feature on Montjuic...
A bit disappointing you'll agree!
On the upside - I didn't get my rucksack zips undone... BIG warning here folks! Take care and don't keep valuables where light fingers can get to them... It happened THREE times - and the people doing it looked quite ordinary... My people were OK as they don't carry much with them and there's not a lot of point in nicking a bottle of water and a banana!
Another scam encountered... a petition on the way to the Museum of Catalonia - it's illegal and designed to extract money from tourists...
And I didn't get to try the Arros Negro ... a speciality of the area where rice is cooked in squid ink... though the person who did said it was actually very nice!
So I missed out on loads - all due to a dead camera. If you want to see more of what I missed, you could look here: http://www.barcelona.com/
Hopefully Kathryn will get her camera sorted out and I will be able to resume my adventures.... Nothing is planned as yet ... but then the best adventures never are, are they?!
Saturday, 10 October 2009
Saturday, 1 November 2008
Venice continued...
After a little wandering the delightful Venetian streets, we got the bus back to the Lido and went to investigate the beach a few minutes walk from the hotel... Doing this in the dark was probably not the most exciting thing we could have done as, in common with lots of beaches in Italy, it was set behind a lot of building so felt quite deserted and bleak. Still we caught a first glimpse of the Adriatic and promised ourselves a longer visit before we left. We found a nice restaurant and had delicious salad and pasta dishes before returning to the hotel for time to plan the next day and get an early night.
Wednesday dawned grey and wet again - but that wasn't going to stop us heading off to do more exploring! And what a full day we had!!
We had not had time to go to S Giorgio Maggiore - in part becase we couldn't find the 82 bus stop. When we realised that this was now the number 2 bus route we had it sussed and made our way across to the island on which the church is set.
Wednesday dawned grey and wet again - but that wasn't going to stop us heading off to do more exploring! And what a full day we had!!
We had not had time to go to S Giorgio Maggiore - in part becase we couldn't find the 82 bus stop. When we realised that this was now the number 2 bus route we had it sussed and made our way across to the island on which the church is set.
It was a large tranquil church with large paintings of the Last Supper and Feeding of the Five Thousand by Tintoretto on the sanctuary. (Alas the pictures of the interior didn't come out all that well...) The highlight was probably going up the Campanile and to view Venice from there.
This was stunning as you can see from this picture looking over to S Marco and the Doge's Palace and more photos will go up on our Panoramio site shortly.
We then got the bus that went around the "outside" of Venice - past the liner port - the car park where everyone has to leave their road vehicles as there is no possiblity of driving in the City - and the railway stations. The route then took us down the Grand Canal... where not only I got left in the bag but also the camera... d'oh! A bit like everything we did - we thought we'd have time to go back and take photos or buy bits and bobs!!
We made our way to the church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. This is a very simple church - on the outside - but very interesting inside. What was a surprise outside was the sound of music and to discover that it was coming from a very talented player of glasses who was playing well-know tunes just using wineglasses and water!
Inside there are many memorials - one to Titian who is buried there - and a splendid carved rood screen. Behind the altar is Titian's the painting of the Assumption which is unusual in that Mary is shown wearing a red dress rather than the more usual blue or white.
We strolled around the corner and found somewhere to pick up a slice of pizza to stoke up for the rest of the day. After wandering round the Museum of Music, we crossed the street to the church of S Rocco. First impressions weren't great but it was raining so we paid the entrance fee and went in... The guidebook suggested that we went upstairs first - and what a feast for the eyes with rich paintings and carvings on the walls and ceilings! It made for a happy hour or so looking at the paintings - the ceiling ones made easier by using mirrors - and identifying the bible story each represented. (Which did pose the questions - how do "post Christian" Europeans make sense of the paintings as they lose the faith-stories on which they are based?)
Then it was back on the boat to Santa Maria della Salute where we were pleased to find that Mass was to be a short time after our arrival. We had time for a look round the church and into the sacristy which held more works of art before Mass and afterwards to light a candle for those we knew who are ill (the ability to light candles in just about all the churches we visited was one of the big differences between Venice and Rome that we particuarly liked). We decided to walk back to the Rialto bridge as this looked a lively part of the City and somewhere we might find a good place to eat. On the way we came across the Peggy Guggenheim museum of modern art - so decided to call in there too! It was an interesting visit but left us with questions about how people decide what is art and what isn't...
As we expected, we found several good restaurants and ate alongside the Grand Canal just about within sight of the famous Rialto Bridge. We got back to the hotel just in time as very soon after a storm brewed up with very strong winds.... it was good to be indoors but we did wonder how we might fare the next day when we had to set off for the airport... what would it be like on the water if we had to fight to close the window against the wind?!
However, the next day dawned bright and clear so the "outdoor" plan was put into effect.
The first stage was to go back to the beach and to see it properly. It was still very windy - but at least I got out of the bag and got to sit on a rock and listen to the sound of the waves of the Adriatic... even if I did have to have my paw held so I didn't fly away in the wind!
Then we went to take the waterbus and visit some of the other islands. We had read that if we only managed one, it should be Torcello so - after a bit of confusion about routes and so on (we discovered that we had to go to Burano first and change there for Torcello) - made our way there. The guidebook was right! As soon as you get off the boat you are aware of a very different environment - more greenery (including a pomegranage tree) for a start! It was, however, the cathedral that was breathtaking with sumptuous 11th century mosaics - and, for Kathryn, things like the apse with steps up to the cathedra and baptistry outside were really exciting for their links with her studies (each to their own!)
Back then to Burano - with its cheerfully painted buildings (pictured on the right) and then to Murano which is famous for its glass-making. Here we found the Museum of Glass and a few shops - to make up for all the ones we have been going to go back to and hadn't had time!
Back to Venice where we decided to walk from Fondamente Nuove to S Marco - having a meal on the way... and savoured a last look at the Square - and the church - and the lagoon before heading back to the Lido to pack and prepare to depart the next morning.
Not much more to say really... We left the hotel soon after 3.30am and were again surprised by how many boats were docking and people wandering around! Our Alilaguna boat came a little late but got us back to the airport in good time to have a quick snack and then away back to England where we arrived to +2 degree temperatures! Brrrr!!
More photos on Panoramio here: http://www.panoramio.com/user/793436
Friday, 31 October 2008
Bilbo in Venice!
Well, Bilbo has been on his travels again - this time very unexpectedly! There had been the suggestion that he might go to Malta to visit a friend of Kathryn and her friend Catherine's called Eileen. For one reason or another this didnt happen but they were still keen to get a bit of last minute warmth before the winter sets in. So a couple of weeks ago, they typed in "cheap breaks" and - in amongst the not-so-cheap trips to DUbai and Cairo were some to Venice.... which was somewhere they'd never thought of but which sounded just right! Enough to do for a few days and, though not far enough south to get lots of heat and sun, at least likely to prolong the nice bits of autumn. And so it proved! There wasn't a lot of time to plan much but the hope was that it would fall into place once they were there!
The trip started with a couple of hours in London before heading to Gatwick on the Gatwick Express. This was really good and seemed to start the break off on the right note - public transport that got us where we wanted when we wanted - cheaply! The flight was all on time and the arrival in Venice was amazing! We landed at about 22.40 and by 23.05, we were on the waterbus to the city! This was definitely a trip into the unknown as we couldn't see where we were going and no real sense of direction! Fortunately, we'd found information online - timetables and even photos of the route to the waterbus stop and there was the lovely moment about an hour into the ride when Catherine spotted the hotel Panorama on the Lido where we were to stay... It was literally metres from the bus-stop and we were made very welcome by Stefano who was on duty that night. He showed us our balcony and we could vaguely see the main part of Venice just across the water - a view which looked even better a couple of days later when the sun came out.
We read somewhere that this was how Venice would have been seen by people who sailed into it - and, if you look closely at the enlarged photo (click on this one), you can see a large cruise liner sailing down between the campanile of S Giorgio Maggiore (on one side of the basin) and that of S Marco (on the other)
But back to our stay (and we have to say that we would recommend the Panorama - it was very comfortable - breakfast was brilliant - and nothing was too much trouble for the staff!)
The first day was, of course, to head for S Marco and get our bearings. We got a 72 hour pass (€31) which got lots of use as we popped on and off boats over the next few days. The weather wasn't particularly good and we found that the Spare and streets were flooded - but the Venetians are used to this and had board walks out so that visitors could get into the church without getting their feet wet! Unfortunately, I didn't get into S Marco's! I was accidentally left in the bags that got checked into the cloakroom - so I didn't get to climb up to the Terrace and marvel at the stunning mosaics - or gaze in admiration at the golden altar piece - or go out and look over the Square and over to the Lagoon - or see what must have been a famous singer walking along miming to Arrivederci Roma for a video! But I did see the pictures (or hear about it as no photos were taken in the churches which did feel very prayerful despite the crowds...)
On top of the two pillars in this one, you can see a winged lion - which represents St Mark who is buried in the basilica and symbols of St Theodore who is the other patron of the City.
In the enlarged versio (clik on the photo) you can just make out the cameraman and singer inthe bottom left-hand corner of the photo - but it isn't very clear!
I was also left in the bag when they went to visit the Doge's Palace next door to the basilica! I understood just how the prisoners felt when they crossed the Bridge of Sighs and caught a last glimpse of the beautiful city and lagoon before being stuck in a dingy prison cell which was in stark contrast to the sumptuously decorated chambers of the Palace itself!
More to come... watch this space!
The trip started with a couple of hours in London before heading to Gatwick on the Gatwick Express. This was really good and seemed to start the break off on the right note - public transport that got us where we wanted when we wanted - cheaply! The flight was all on time and the arrival in Venice was amazing! We landed at about 22.40 and by 23.05, we were on the waterbus to the city! This was definitely a trip into the unknown as we couldn't see where we were going and no real sense of direction! Fortunately, we'd found information online - timetables and even photos of the route to the waterbus stop and there was the lovely moment about an hour into the ride when Catherine spotted the hotel Panorama on the Lido where we were to stay... It was literally metres from the bus-stop and we were made very welcome by Stefano who was on duty that night. He showed us our balcony and we could vaguely see the main part of Venice just across the water - a view which looked even better a couple of days later when the sun came out.
We read somewhere that this was how Venice would have been seen by people who sailed into it - and, if you look closely at the enlarged photo (click on this one), you can see a large cruise liner sailing down between the campanile of S Giorgio Maggiore (on one side of the basin) and that of S Marco (on the other)
But back to our stay (and we have to say that we would recommend the Panorama - it was very comfortable - breakfast was brilliant - and nothing was too much trouble for the staff!)
The first day was, of course, to head for S Marco and get our bearings. We got a 72 hour pass (€31) which got lots of use as we popped on and off boats over the next few days. The weather wasn't particularly good and we found that the Spare and streets were flooded - but the Venetians are used to this and had board walks out so that visitors could get into the church without getting their feet wet! Unfortunately, I didn't get into S Marco's! I was accidentally left in the bags that got checked into the cloakroom - so I didn't get to climb up to the Terrace and marvel at the stunning mosaics - or gaze in admiration at the golden altar piece - or go out and look over the Square and over to the Lagoon - or see what must have been a famous singer walking along miming to Arrivederci Roma for a video! But I did see the pictures (or hear about it as no photos were taken in the churches which did feel very prayerful despite the crowds...)
On top of the two pillars in this one, you can see a winged lion - which represents St Mark who is buried in the basilica and symbols of St Theodore who is the other patron of the City.
In the enlarged versio (clik on the photo) you can just make out the cameraman and singer inthe bottom left-hand corner of the photo - but it isn't very clear!
I was also left in the bag when they went to visit the Doge's Palace next door to the basilica! I understood just how the prisoners felt when they crossed the Bridge of Sighs and caught a last glimpse of the beautiful city and lagoon before being stuck in a dingy prison cell which was in stark contrast to the sumptuously decorated chambers of the Palace itself!
More to come... watch this space!
Thursday, 24 July 2008
Photos uploaded
A fair few of the photos from Burkina Faso have now been uploaded - though not actually labelled as yet!
For pictures of places, click here: http://www.panoramio.com/user/793436
For pictures of people, http://www.panoramio.com/user/2038347
Labels for the photos of places will follow as soon as possible!
Enjoy :-)
For pictures of places, click here: http://www.panoramio.com/user/793436
For pictures of people, http://www.panoramio.com/user/2038347
Labels for the photos of places will follow as soon as possible!
Enjoy :-)
Tuesday, 22 July 2008
Back in the UK
And so the time in Burkina Faso has come to an end and this is being written in the UK which isn't cold or wet but sunny and warm which is good to come back to!
Photos of the ordination weekend (and views) are here. A new account has been set up for photos of the people we met (which will be kept "private"- only available to people we give the link to).
Here then is the account of the last few days of the visit to Burkina.
As was mentioned on Friday, the plan was to go to the Mare des Poissons Sacreés - and this did indeed happen. A guide had been found with moto rider and both came with Jean for the expedition. This wasn't actually too far from the town - though still far enough to be tricky to find - in part because farmers sometimes cultivate over the tracks at this time of year! We left the motorcycles with one of the farmers close to the Mare and continued on foot through fields of maize and millet to rocky ground and cliffs. We were actually above the Mare but it was not visible from the top... To get to it, we had to clamber down the steep, rocky slopes - as we agreed, it can be more tiring going uphill but descending can be more difficult! Eventually, the tree clad cliffs opened out into a glade with small waterfall and a pools fed by it. It was a place that reminded us of similar water-places in the UK that had been held sacred from ancient times and, in many cases, been Christianised - especially by the Celtic Christians. It may be that they were used in a similar way by the pagan peoples - with sacrifices to the gods. It was strange to Kathryn's eyes to see a place of natural beauty "spoiled" (coming from her own background and spirituality) by piles of feathers - entrails - hides of sheep and goats and tell-tales trickles of blood. Sacrifice is a key element in animist beliefs.
Permission was given to go closer to the pool - though this had to be done in bare feet as a mark of respect for the holy ground. The guide thought that we wanted to see a sacrifice ... which hadn't really been the case! What was interesting was that the people seeking to make it were a young couple who, if seen out in the street, would have been seen as "cool" - very fashionably dressed (and interesting how we see others - who would no doubt look at us and make similar contrasts!) The sacrifice was of a chicken and mercifully the actual dispatching of the creature was done out of sight - though not out of earshot. After the cutting of the throat, much interest was shown in the way in which the death agony was played out - how the bird moved - flapped around - and its position when it finally expired - or the nervous system finally "died". Some feathers were plucked and dropped into the water of the top pool - but no fish were visible. Usually the waters are clear but in the rainy season - as this was - they are filled with sand and silt and become murky and so the fish are difficult to see.
It was suggested that we move to the lower pool in hopes that we would see the fish there - the chicken would be gutted and then burned... Entrails were gathered up and we clambered - still barefoot - down to the lower pool. Here, people hung a few of the guts over the waters and some said prayers as the fish came to the surface to eat them. The fish are distinctly ugly - large - flat and with tentacles around their wide mouths which they wave above the surface of the water. However, the people hold them to be sacred and, if one is found dead, it is buried with the rites accorded to a human being.
The climb back wasn't as bad as feared - not too far and Kathryn was interested to note a rock formation overlooking the plain before it that looked like a cross in profile... as a Christian, of course, this is the supreme sacrifice of one who chose to give his life and did not, as in animal sacrifice, have it taken from him... A thought for those interested to ponder!
The afternoon was spent in making a note of what we needed to get in readiness for the return to the UK as Saturday was the day set aside for the shopping ... sigh....
Given the pushiness of the people when Jeanne d'Arc and Kathryn had gone to the Grand Marché before, Anselme asked Jean if he would mind going along this time... It can't have been wildly exciting for him but he was brilliant at negotiating prices and so on... We agreed fair prices which hopefully made a decent income from the bits for the sellers without ripping anyone off! The main things to pick up were fabrics for Wisdom House... this could have been an endless and enjoyable task with so many glorious designs to choose from! The Grand Marché really is a wonderful place for cottons - but also other sumptuous fabrics which we didn't have room for - and concern was being raised about the ultimate weight of things to carry! The other purchases were mainly gifts for a few folk in the UK - always with the note to the merchants that things had to be light... and the attempts at selling continued until it was clear to everyone that the purse was, literally, empty!
There were a couple more bits that Kathryn planned to get from the Point de Vente at the Centre after lunch but then ... it started to rain! One of Anselme's family invited Kathryn to go to sleep at the Grande Maison but she didn't really understand why - it was, after all, only a bit of rain! Five hours later, it had eased off enough for her to make the way back to the Centre! Anselme reported the next day that, during the course of the storm over 6cm rain had fallen... and, realising what was coming, the family had gathered things inside and gone to sleep... hence the invitation to Kathryn! It was, though, interesting to watch the lightning and rain and listen to the thunder - a storm but not as we know it!
On Sunday morning, there was some discussion about where to go to Mass.... Kathryn opting for the French Mass in the old Cathedral (now a chapel) but halfway through began to wonder if she should have gone to the one in More at St Vincent de Paul! In the afternoon, Anselme and Kathryn chose some of the clothes from the many given as gifts from the parish to take out to a couple of families who might welcome them. It was nice to say that "this is a gift from.... " - and the fact that they came all the way from England made them seem even more special - though Kathryn's knowledge of football didn't run to talking more about the Southampton football shirts someone had sent over! (Many people are as mad on football there as here and we had to negotiate several matches being played in the streets during our stay!) It was great to try things against the children and decide which fitted who - and there will be more of this over the coming weeks as Anselme works through the suitcase and bags he decanted the gifts into! It was also lovely - and a great privilege - to think that we were linking people who live far apart but who like the same kinds of things and know what fun it is to choose things to give and for the receivers to enjoy the surprises! More practically, we also looked at a pigsty that is in need of repair so that the owner of the pigs can ensure he makes a good living for his family - at least one of whom is probably HIV+ and another in real need of good medical treatment... as she walked with Kathryn to the main road (and told her how much she likes school - particularly doing writing which, of course, appealed to K!) it was clear from her cold hand that she was far from well... Hopefully part of the monetary gifts can help the family a little.
And then, the preparations to depart on the 7.30a.m. bus back to Ouagadougou... Several of Anselme's cousins were heading back that way and were delegated with getting Kathryn to the airport to sort out the passport and so on. It was with great sadness that Kathryn left the compound and prepared to leave Burkina Faso - even though it was hard to pinpoint what could have made such in an impression in two short weeks! Maybe it was just a combination of lots of things drawn together to create a sense of welcome and warmth.
The cousins were very helpful - and Annie was able to practise some of her English which she studied for her Baccalauréat. They invited her to their home for lunch - but first it was to the immigration counter to sort out the visa.... This turned out to be pretty ironic - as the visa had already been stamped in the passport - but near the front! How three of us managed to look at the passport and not see it goodness knows but we did! However, the fee paid on the first day was repaid and the photos returned - and thoughts of the inconvenience set to one side... with a memo to self to find and mark any future visas before leaving the UK!
After lunch, a neighbour of the cousins who speaks Engish, Seone, took Kathryn out for a tour of the new buildings going up in Ouaga as he was on his way to visit another English-speaking friend, Olivia, who comes from Rwanda and works for an American working on the construction of their embassies in Africa. It was interesting - if harrowing - to listen to the experiences of her family who sought refuge in Uganda in the late 50s until the late 90s when they returned to Rwanda a few years after the genocide there. She described it as a beautiful country with a gentler climate than she had found in Ouaga which is very hot most of the year - and encouraged Kathryn to think about going there!
And finally, to the airport and the journey home. This was delayed as we waited for another heavy storm to pass and the flight to Paris was also quite turbulent... well, just enough to need to keep seatbelts on... happily there was a good selection of films!
There are more photos to come over the next few days - we won't put up all 300+ so it will take a little while to sort out what's what and what should be uploaded! Call back sometime soon and enjoy looking at the photos taken on a journey to a very special country - or, more precisely, to visit very special people.
Hope you've enjoyed this - and maybe one day you'll get to Burkina Faso too!
Photos of the ordination weekend (and views) are here. A new account has been set up for photos of the people we met (which will be kept "private"- only available to people we give the link to).
Here then is the account of the last few days of the visit to Burkina.
As was mentioned on Friday, the plan was to go to the Mare des Poissons Sacreés - and this did indeed happen. A guide had been found with moto rider and both came with Jean for the expedition. This wasn't actually too far from the town - though still far enough to be tricky to find - in part because farmers sometimes cultivate over the tracks at this time of year! We left the motorcycles with one of the farmers close to the Mare and continued on foot through fields of maize and millet to rocky ground and cliffs. We were actually above the Mare but it was not visible from the top... To get to it, we had to clamber down the steep, rocky slopes - as we agreed, it can be more tiring going uphill but descending can be more difficult! Eventually, the tree clad cliffs opened out into a glade with small waterfall and a pools fed by it. It was a place that reminded us of similar water-places in the UK that had been held sacred from ancient times and, in many cases, been Christianised - especially by the Celtic Christians. It may be that they were used in a similar way by the pagan peoples - with sacrifices to the gods. It was strange to Kathryn's eyes to see a place of natural beauty "spoiled" (coming from her own background and spirituality) by piles of feathers - entrails - hides of sheep and goats and tell-tales trickles of blood. Sacrifice is a key element in animist beliefs.
Permission was given to go closer to the pool - though this had to be done in bare feet as a mark of respect for the holy ground. The guide thought that we wanted to see a sacrifice ... which hadn't really been the case! What was interesting was that the people seeking to make it were a young couple who, if seen out in the street, would have been seen as "cool" - very fashionably dressed (and interesting how we see others - who would no doubt look at us and make similar contrasts!) The sacrifice was of a chicken and mercifully the actual dispatching of the creature was done out of sight - though not out of earshot. After the cutting of the throat, much interest was shown in the way in which the death agony was played out - how the bird moved - flapped around - and its position when it finally expired - or the nervous system finally "died". Some feathers were plucked and dropped into the water of the top pool - but no fish were visible. Usually the waters are clear but in the rainy season - as this was - they are filled with sand and silt and become murky and so the fish are difficult to see.
It was suggested that we move to the lower pool in hopes that we would see the fish there - the chicken would be gutted and then burned... Entrails were gathered up and we clambered - still barefoot - down to the lower pool. Here, people hung a few of the guts over the waters and some said prayers as the fish came to the surface to eat them. The fish are distinctly ugly - large - flat and with tentacles around their wide mouths which they wave above the surface of the water. However, the people hold them to be sacred and, if one is found dead, it is buried with the rites accorded to a human being.
The climb back wasn't as bad as feared - not too far and Kathryn was interested to note a rock formation overlooking the plain before it that looked like a cross in profile... as a Christian, of course, this is the supreme sacrifice of one who chose to give his life and did not, as in animal sacrifice, have it taken from him... A thought for those interested to ponder!
The afternoon was spent in making a note of what we needed to get in readiness for the return to the UK as Saturday was the day set aside for the shopping ... sigh....
Given the pushiness of the people when Jeanne d'Arc and Kathryn had gone to the Grand Marché before, Anselme asked Jean if he would mind going along this time... It can't have been wildly exciting for him but he was brilliant at negotiating prices and so on... We agreed fair prices which hopefully made a decent income from the bits for the sellers without ripping anyone off! The main things to pick up were fabrics for Wisdom House... this could have been an endless and enjoyable task with so many glorious designs to choose from! The Grand Marché really is a wonderful place for cottons - but also other sumptuous fabrics which we didn't have room for - and concern was being raised about the ultimate weight of things to carry! The other purchases were mainly gifts for a few folk in the UK - always with the note to the merchants that things had to be light... and the attempts at selling continued until it was clear to everyone that the purse was, literally, empty!
There were a couple more bits that Kathryn planned to get from the Point de Vente at the Centre after lunch but then ... it started to rain! One of Anselme's family invited Kathryn to go to sleep at the Grande Maison but she didn't really understand why - it was, after all, only a bit of rain! Five hours later, it had eased off enough for her to make the way back to the Centre! Anselme reported the next day that, during the course of the storm over 6cm rain had fallen... and, realising what was coming, the family had gathered things inside and gone to sleep... hence the invitation to Kathryn! It was, though, interesting to watch the lightning and rain and listen to the thunder - a storm but not as we know it!
On Sunday morning, there was some discussion about where to go to Mass.... Kathryn opting for the French Mass in the old Cathedral (now a chapel) but halfway through began to wonder if she should have gone to the one in More at St Vincent de Paul! In the afternoon, Anselme and Kathryn chose some of the clothes from the many given as gifts from the parish to take out to a couple of families who might welcome them. It was nice to say that "this is a gift from.... " - and the fact that they came all the way from England made them seem even more special - though Kathryn's knowledge of football didn't run to talking more about the Southampton football shirts someone had sent over! (Many people are as mad on football there as here and we had to negotiate several matches being played in the streets during our stay!) It was great to try things against the children and decide which fitted who - and there will be more of this over the coming weeks as Anselme works through the suitcase and bags he decanted the gifts into! It was also lovely - and a great privilege - to think that we were linking people who live far apart but who like the same kinds of things and know what fun it is to choose things to give and for the receivers to enjoy the surprises! More practically, we also looked at a pigsty that is in need of repair so that the owner of the pigs can ensure he makes a good living for his family - at least one of whom is probably HIV+ and another in real need of good medical treatment... as she walked with Kathryn to the main road (and told her how much she likes school - particularly doing writing which, of course, appealed to K!) it was clear from her cold hand that she was far from well... Hopefully part of the monetary gifts can help the family a little.
And then, the preparations to depart on the 7.30a.m. bus back to Ouagadougou... Several of Anselme's cousins were heading back that way and were delegated with getting Kathryn to the airport to sort out the passport and so on. It was with great sadness that Kathryn left the compound and prepared to leave Burkina Faso - even though it was hard to pinpoint what could have made such in an impression in two short weeks! Maybe it was just a combination of lots of things drawn together to create a sense of welcome and warmth.
The cousins were very helpful - and Annie was able to practise some of her English which she studied for her Baccalauréat. They invited her to their home for lunch - but first it was to the immigration counter to sort out the visa.... This turned out to be pretty ironic - as the visa had already been stamped in the passport - but near the front! How three of us managed to look at the passport and not see it goodness knows but we did! However, the fee paid on the first day was repaid and the photos returned - and thoughts of the inconvenience set to one side... with a memo to self to find and mark any future visas before leaving the UK!
After lunch, a neighbour of the cousins who speaks Engish, Seone, took Kathryn out for a tour of the new buildings going up in Ouaga as he was on his way to visit another English-speaking friend, Olivia, who comes from Rwanda and works for an American working on the construction of their embassies in Africa. It was interesting - if harrowing - to listen to the experiences of her family who sought refuge in Uganda in the late 50s until the late 90s when they returned to Rwanda a few years after the genocide there. She described it as a beautiful country with a gentler climate than she had found in Ouaga which is very hot most of the year - and encouraged Kathryn to think about going there!
And finally, to the airport and the journey home. This was delayed as we waited for another heavy storm to pass and the flight to Paris was also quite turbulent... well, just enough to need to keep seatbelts on... happily there was a good selection of films!
There are more photos to come over the next few days - we won't put up all 300+ so it will take a little while to sort out what's what and what should be uploaded! Call back sometime soon and enjoy looking at the photos taken on a journey to a very special country - or, more precisely, to visit very special people.
Hope you've enjoyed this - and maybe one day you'll get to Burkina Faso too!
Friday, 18 July 2008
Coming to the end...
Well, here we are entering the last few days of the visit! It seems in many ways to have gone quickly but a long time since we left the UK!!
This is really a quick update before the weekend in case time doesn't permit a visit to the cyber then - though you never know...
Yesterday was a quiet day which was welcome after the busy-ness of preceding days. Much of it (after the epic session in the cyber cafe writing up yesterday's entry) was spent at the compound of Anselme's grandmother. This was back to normal - all the chairs and canopies had gone as well as most of the guests. The last two were returning to the Ivory Coast yesterday afternoon and when we arrived, the family were preparing meat for them to take back with them - a process which took most of the afternoon. After lunch and a time just spent watching the various goings-on in the family compound, we went to the church of St Vincent de Paul where Anselme had arranged for Kathryn to meet one of the catechists to talk about how people are prepared for baptism and so on here. There are many similarities - but also many differences. Here, for example, there is an emphasis on putting aside the sacrificing of chickens - and various rules around the practice of polygamy (a catechumen cannot be baptised if they are in a polygamous relationship, for example). It was very interesting and Kathryn and the catechist Georges were equally proud that their French held out and only once needed a translation to confirm that it had been communicated OK (about polygamy and what happens if someone has completed a catechumenate formation but is still bound in a polygamous marriage... you can see how it could get complicated!)
After a return to the compound for a while, it was then to the school of St Martine where there is a daily prayer group. Expecting just a few, Kathryn was surprised that over 50 people gathered for a sharing of the Word of God and the praying of the Rosary (Mysteries of Light as it was Thursday). Before she left, Kathryn was given a candle by a friend in the parish (Heidi) to use when praying with others - there hadn't been chance to use it before - most prayers had been in churches, etc) but this was a good opportunity to light it here. People were delighted by the idea and it is now an honoured part of the setting for prayer there. What was interesting in the prayer service was the mix of French and Dioula for the readings and prayers. People started the Hail Mary in turn and if someone started in French people continued the "Holy Mary, Mother of God..." in French - if in Dioula, then everyone (well, everyone except Kathryn who resorted to English very quietly!) continued in Dioula. At the end, Kathryn was introduced to everyone which was a bit embarrassing but they were pleased that someone had come from so far for the ordination but also to join them in prayer.
An evening meal awaited - a little too "piementé" (full of chillis) for Kathryn's taste but still hospitable - and then back to the Centre d'Acceuil.
Today the plan is to go to a place of animist worship - the Mare des Poissons Sacres (sacred fish)... Not sure quite what to expect as it sounds as if chickens are sacrificed and fed to the fish - and various other rituals - which we won't be taking part in but it will be interesting to see in terms of what is traditional for many people here and the change of heart becoming a Christian brings with it. Also, we hope to sort out the gifts from the UK - a bit of a mammoth task but Kathryn needs the bag to bring things back with her!
So... if opportunity to add more arises then there will be more before returning to England but if not - watch this space for the last installments and the photos!!!!!!!!!
This is really a quick update before the weekend in case time doesn't permit a visit to the cyber then - though you never know...
Yesterday was a quiet day which was welcome after the busy-ness of preceding days. Much of it (after the epic session in the cyber cafe writing up yesterday's entry) was spent at the compound of Anselme's grandmother. This was back to normal - all the chairs and canopies had gone as well as most of the guests. The last two were returning to the Ivory Coast yesterday afternoon and when we arrived, the family were preparing meat for them to take back with them - a process which took most of the afternoon. After lunch and a time just spent watching the various goings-on in the family compound, we went to the church of St Vincent de Paul where Anselme had arranged for Kathryn to meet one of the catechists to talk about how people are prepared for baptism and so on here. There are many similarities - but also many differences. Here, for example, there is an emphasis on putting aside the sacrificing of chickens - and various rules around the practice of polygamy (a catechumen cannot be baptised if they are in a polygamous relationship, for example). It was very interesting and Kathryn and the catechist Georges were equally proud that their French held out and only once needed a translation to confirm that it had been communicated OK (about polygamy and what happens if someone has completed a catechumenate formation but is still bound in a polygamous marriage... you can see how it could get complicated!)
After a return to the compound for a while, it was then to the school of St Martine where there is a daily prayer group. Expecting just a few, Kathryn was surprised that over 50 people gathered for a sharing of the Word of God and the praying of the Rosary (Mysteries of Light as it was Thursday). Before she left, Kathryn was given a candle by a friend in the parish (Heidi) to use when praying with others - there hadn't been chance to use it before - most prayers had been in churches, etc) but this was a good opportunity to light it here. People were delighted by the idea and it is now an honoured part of the setting for prayer there. What was interesting in the prayer service was the mix of French and Dioula for the readings and prayers. People started the Hail Mary in turn and if someone started in French people continued the "Holy Mary, Mother of God..." in French - if in Dioula, then everyone (well, everyone except Kathryn who resorted to English very quietly!) continued in Dioula. At the end, Kathryn was introduced to everyone which was a bit embarrassing but they were pleased that someone had come from so far for the ordination but also to join them in prayer.
An evening meal awaited - a little too "piementé" (full of chillis) for Kathryn's taste but still hospitable - and then back to the Centre d'Acceuil.
Today the plan is to go to a place of animist worship - the Mare des Poissons Sacres (sacred fish)... Not sure quite what to expect as it sounds as if chickens are sacrificed and fed to the fish - and various other rituals - which we won't be taking part in but it will be interesting to see in terms of what is traditional for many people here and the change of heart becoming a Christian brings with it. Also, we hope to sort out the gifts from the UK - a bit of a mammoth task but Kathryn needs the bag to bring things back with her!
So... if opportunity to add more arises then there will be more before returning to England but if not - watch this space for the last installments and the photos!!!!!!!!!
Thursday, 17 July 2008
You know you are acclimatising when...
Well - what a week!!! So much has happened that it will be hard to fit it all in in one day but here goes!
On Saturday, it was, of course, the Ordination so it was up early and over to the Cathedral for about an hour before the Mass started. Even so, the church was full and it was good that Anselme's family adopted Kathryn as she could sit with them quite near the front. She was given a shirt in the fabric chosen for the family too - and was fascinated by the different designs used by women so that no two outfits were the same... there are photos to come!
The service began with the entrance procession - there were to be seven ordinations: 5 to religious orders and 2 diocesan priests. There were chairs for them on the high altar facing the bishop. At the beginning of the Rite of Ordination, each candidate had to be vouched for in a short history of what they had done and of their suitability and readines for priesthood.
It seemed odd at first that the candidates should have their backs to us - but as the ordination unfolded it made sense as, after their vows and the laying on of hands (by every priest there!), etc the new priests left to be vested. On their return, the chairs now faced the congregation and it felt as if they were now priests for the People of God gathered round the altar. The photos are, alas, quite dark but hopefully we will get some of the official ones and be able to do an account in more detail with those. The Mass continued and it was a joy to see Anselme take what seemed really to be his rightful place at the altar.
At the end of Mass, there were several speeches of congratulation and good wishes and the Provincial of the Missionaries of Africa announced that Anselme's first posting would be to Algeria. Once these were complete, there was an Acte de Grace - a procession of the new priests, their families and anyone else who wanted to join in! It was exuberant and full of joy as maybe 1000 people celebrated the ordinations of the new priests.
After the Mass (which lasted four-and-a-half hours), Anselme's little sister Mariam, and Kathryn walked back to the house of Anselme's grandmother. The compound had been transformed with hundreds of chairs and canopies for shade. At one end, friends and neighbours gathered and at the other, family and close friends. It seemed as if the whole neighbourhood had come for the feast! Kathryn was pleased to meet again Michaela who had come from Kenya for the occasion. As they both speak English, it was good to be able to chat- though there were many other conversations with family and friends of Anselme who had come from Ghana, Mali and the Ivory Coast for the ordination.
One highlight was a troupe of traditional dancers who danced energetically for about an hour going around the crowds to entertain them... again photos will follow!
The next morning was to be Anselme's first Mass in the church of St Vincent de Paul where he had grown up and been an altar server. Père Albert arrived to collect Kathryn at 7.30 but even so the church was full! Luckily, again, there was a seat reserved so she could get in the church! The Mass was to be concelebrated with another of the new priests and was mainly in French with some Dioula. The singing was excellent with two choirs joining forces and many of the songs were easy to pick up and join in with. At the end there were more speeches and much joy as these were the 10th and 11th ordinations in the parish. Père Albert had said that when he had arrived in the parish about 30 years before there was very little but now many people were responding to the call of God... he described Anselme as his "little Samuel" and was obviously very proud of him! This Mass - just for information - was three-and-a-half hours.
It was then to go to the parish rooms for the first feast prepared by the women of the parish... Kathryn was strongly reminded of the Mass at Pentecost when there was a similar abundance of food appearing from nowhere it seemed! After eating here, it was then to the grandmother's again for yet another feast! This was a major celebration!! On this afternoon, local drummers came and the women took turns to dance - some with incredible energy. It was exhilarating to watch but not to even think of joining in!
That evening, Anselme called by the Centre d'Acceuil and suggested a change of plan. Père Albert was going back to his mission in Konadougou and was happy for Kathryn to go back with him for a couple of days. This sounded like a great opportunity and so it turned out to be. The first stage was to Banfora where they stopped briefly at the Cathedral and Kathryn met a priest who has started a local Catholic radio station which broadcasts 4 hours a day. Then on to Konadougou which was another 50km further west/southwest. This route was particularly beautiful as the road was lined with mango trees for miles. Further into the area, the roads were more and more affected by the rains and became more and more uneven - especially as they turned off and headed to Konadougou... Père Albert's truck with 4-wheel drive was probably the only way to travel - other than motorbike/ moped/ bike (of which we saw many).
We dropped off the Sisters and went to the simply furnished White Fathers' house. The whole settlement were the houses, the church, school and a hall - very remote! There was electricity and a television (now picking up Burkinabé TV as opposed to Ivory Coast) but we were far from things like the internet - hence the gap in the blog!
There were traditional villages nearby and, though it felt far from anywhere, there were often people walking to and from fields. After lunch chez Paul in Sindou (and a siesta!) we visited the parish dispensary and a local village. Here we met the man responsible for the care of Christians in the area who introduced us to his son Simon Pierre and the new arrival Eugène who was born on 8 July. This village is made up round houses made of mud bricks with thatched roofs and granaries (same shape but smaller). The population of about 200 is made up of Christians, Muslims and animists - some within the same families. All live together in tolerance - the Burkinabé (people of Burkina) pride themselves on their being an integrated people and when a sect of Islam came and threatened to disturb the tolerance, they were removed.
This was an example of a village in which different families lived together, in this area are also tribes in which the families live separately - each in their own fields. As Père Albert said, one thing the Church offers here is an opportunity for people to gather - and they do - coming around 50km for meetings and so on. It means a different approach to meetings as people cannot just drop by for an hour's meeting each week! They will come for mornings and have a meal but evening meetings are rare because of the fear of snakes and so forth on the way home.
It was a great chance for Kathryn to learn more about how people are prepared for becoming Christians - how local customs and languages are used in liturgy and so on - and to experience something of the life of missionaries deep in the countryside of Africa!
The second day, we went to the Pics of Sindou - an other-worldy place of strangely shaped rock formations; It was originally a sea bed but the sea obviously receded and the rocks were left exposed. The soft ones were eroded by wind and rain and what is left is the slightly harder sandstone - though even that is quite crumbly. It is a great location for films - and is sometimes used by the Burkinabé film people.
Then on to a dam built by the people - mainly of rocks. This holds the rainwater from the hills which is used to irrigate the fields. The reservoir is a spectacular sight with lush green grass and palm trees and fishermen and their boats on the water. However, the reservoir is only half full at this time of the year and when it is full (as in a month or so's time) the grass will be submerged as will be most of the palm trees - only their crowns will be visible! Last year, however, there was so much rain that, as well as washing away many crops, it filled the reservoir to over flowing and local people had to move away for a time.
In the afternoon, we went to the new house for the priests and Sisters - this is to be in Sindou which will be easier for many people to get to. The new place is beautifully light and airy - but already being attacked by termites... once people move in they will hopefully be able to get the, under control!
As we travelled back over the rough terrain, the clouds gathered and it looked like the much longed for rain was going to arrive... It did - spectacularly! A massive tropical storm broke and lasted over 3 hours. Kathryn was glad to be in a solid house but Père Albert reassured her that local people would simply sleep through it in great tranquility!
The next day was the return to Bobo via Banfora. Here we visited the Cathedral House again and then the Diocesan Pastoral Centre. This is mainly under construction though the chapel (an octagonal building of brick with some plastered walls painted a soft turquoise) accommodation and some meeting rooms are complete. A covered-area for concerts/ films, etc is currently being built but, as the roof had not been firmy fixed, it blew off in the strong winds of the stor, the night before. A quick look at the hospital being built and a new college being built by Augustinians but to be run by the Cenacle and it was back to the bus station for the bus back to Bobo - arriving safely and heading back to the Centre d'Acceuil for the evenng.
Today, obviously, is catching up with this... hopefully, it has given a flavour though the photos will help a lot and fill in in more details when they are uploaded (probably next week I thnk - there are so many it would take too long to sort through them here!) Lunch will be qt Anselme's grandmother's and then hopefully to meet a local catechist at St Vincent de Paul and to the women's prayer this evening...
Hopefully there will be chance to do a little more of this tomorrow though we may got the lake of the sacred fish so that Kathryn can see some local customs. Then a bit ot shopping and the preparations for the return journey... the time goes so quickly now!
So for today, a bientot...
.... oh and about the acclimatisation? Ah - well - you know you are acclimatising when, after the rain, you think things are much cooler - and then read on the thermometer that it is 26°C!
A bientot!
On Saturday, it was, of course, the Ordination so it was up early and over to the Cathedral for about an hour before the Mass started. Even so, the church was full and it was good that Anselme's family adopted Kathryn as she could sit with them quite near the front. She was given a shirt in the fabric chosen for the family too - and was fascinated by the different designs used by women so that no two outfits were the same... there are photos to come!
The service began with the entrance procession - there were to be seven ordinations: 5 to religious orders and 2 diocesan priests. There were chairs for them on the high altar facing the bishop. At the beginning of the Rite of Ordination, each candidate had to be vouched for in a short history of what they had done and of their suitability and readines for priesthood.
It seemed odd at first that the candidates should have their backs to us - but as the ordination unfolded it made sense as, after their vows and the laying on of hands (by every priest there!), etc the new priests left to be vested. On their return, the chairs now faced the congregation and it felt as if they were now priests for the People of God gathered round the altar. The photos are, alas, quite dark but hopefully we will get some of the official ones and be able to do an account in more detail with those. The Mass continued and it was a joy to see Anselme take what seemed really to be his rightful place at the altar.
At the end of Mass, there were several speeches of congratulation and good wishes and the Provincial of the Missionaries of Africa announced that Anselme's first posting would be to Algeria. Once these were complete, there was an Acte de Grace - a procession of the new priests, their families and anyone else who wanted to join in! It was exuberant and full of joy as maybe 1000 people celebrated the ordinations of the new priests.
After the Mass (which lasted four-and-a-half hours), Anselme's little sister Mariam, and Kathryn walked back to the house of Anselme's grandmother. The compound had been transformed with hundreds of chairs and canopies for shade. At one end, friends and neighbours gathered and at the other, family and close friends. It seemed as if the whole neighbourhood had come for the feast! Kathryn was pleased to meet again Michaela who had come from Kenya for the occasion. As they both speak English, it was good to be able to chat- though there were many other conversations with family and friends of Anselme who had come from Ghana, Mali and the Ivory Coast for the ordination.
One highlight was a troupe of traditional dancers who danced energetically for about an hour going around the crowds to entertain them... again photos will follow!
The next morning was to be Anselme's first Mass in the church of St Vincent de Paul where he had grown up and been an altar server. Père Albert arrived to collect Kathryn at 7.30 but even so the church was full! Luckily, again, there was a seat reserved so she could get in the church! The Mass was to be concelebrated with another of the new priests and was mainly in French with some Dioula. The singing was excellent with two choirs joining forces and many of the songs were easy to pick up and join in with. At the end there were more speeches and much joy as these were the 10th and 11th ordinations in the parish. Père Albert had said that when he had arrived in the parish about 30 years before there was very little but now many people were responding to the call of God... he described Anselme as his "little Samuel" and was obviously very proud of him! This Mass - just for information - was three-and-a-half hours.
It was then to go to the parish rooms for the first feast prepared by the women of the parish... Kathryn was strongly reminded of the Mass at Pentecost when there was a similar abundance of food appearing from nowhere it seemed! After eating here, it was then to the grandmother's again for yet another feast! This was a major celebration!! On this afternoon, local drummers came and the women took turns to dance - some with incredible energy. It was exhilarating to watch but not to even think of joining in!
That evening, Anselme called by the Centre d'Acceuil and suggested a change of plan. Père Albert was going back to his mission in Konadougou and was happy for Kathryn to go back with him for a couple of days. This sounded like a great opportunity and so it turned out to be. The first stage was to Banfora where they stopped briefly at the Cathedral and Kathryn met a priest who has started a local Catholic radio station which broadcasts 4 hours a day. Then on to Konadougou which was another 50km further west/southwest. This route was particularly beautiful as the road was lined with mango trees for miles. Further into the area, the roads were more and more affected by the rains and became more and more uneven - especially as they turned off and headed to Konadougou... Père Albert's truck with 4-wheel drive was probably the only way to travel - other than motorbike/ moped/ bike (of which we saw many).
We dropped off the Sisters and went to the simply furnished White Fathers' house. The whole settlement were the houses, the church, school and a hall - very remote! There was electricity and a television (now picking up Burkinabé TV as opposed to Ivory Coast) but we were far from things like the internet - hence the gap in the blog!
There were traditional villages nearby and, though it felt far from anywhere, there were often people walking to and from fields. After lunch chez Paul in Sindou (and a siesta!) we visited the parish dispensary and a local village. Here we met the man responsible for the care of Christians in the area who introduced us to his son Simon Pierre and the new arrival Eugène who was born on 8 July. This village is made up round houses made of mud bricks with thatched roofs and granaries (same shape but smaller). The population of about 200 is made up of Christians, Muslims and animists - some within the same families. All live together in tolerance - the Burkinabé (people of Burkina) pride themselves on their being an integrated people and when a sect of Islam came and threatened to disturb the tolerance, they were removed.
This was an example of a village in which different families lived together, in this area are also tribes in which the families live separately - each in their own fields. As Père Albert said, one thing the Church offers here is an opportunity for people to gather - and they do - coming around 50km for meetings and so on. It means a different approach to meetings as people cannot just drop by for an hour's meeting each week! They will come for mornings and have a meal but evening meetings are rare because of the fear of snakes and so forth on the way home.
It was a great chance for Kathryn to learn more about how people are prepared for becoming Christians - how local customs and languages are used in liturgy and so on - and to experience something of the life of missionaries deep in the countryside of Africa!
The second day, we went to the Pics of Sindou - an other-worldy place of strangely shaped rock formations; It was originally a sea bed but the sea obviously receded and the rocks were left exposed. The soft ones were eroded by wind and rain and what is left is the slightly harder sandstone - though even that is quite crumbly. It is a great location for films - and is sometimes used by the Burkinabé film people.
Then on to a dam built by the people - mainly of rocks. This holds the rainwater from the hills which is used to irrigate the fields. The reservoir is a spectacular sight with lush green grass and palm trees and fishermen and their boats on the water. However, the reservoir is only half full at this time of the year and when it is full (as in a month or so's time) the grass will be submerged as will be most of the palm trees - only their crowns will be visible! Last year, however, there was so much rain that, as well as washing away many crops, it filled the reservoir to over flowing and local people had to move away for a time.
In the afternoon, we went to the new house for the priests and Sisters - this is to be in Sindou which will be easier for many people to get to. The new place is beautifully light and airy - but already being attacked by termites... once people move in they will hopefully be able to get the, under control!
As we travelled back over the rough terrain, the clouds gathered and it looked like the much longed for rain was going to arrive... It did - spectacularly! A massive tropical storm broke and lasted over 3 hours. Kathryn was glad to be in a solid house but Père Albert reassured her that local people would simply sleep through it in great tranquility!
The next day was the return to Bobo via Banfora. Here we visited the Cathedral House again and then the Diocesan Pastoral Centre. This is mainly under construction though the chapel (an octagonal building of brick with some plastered walls painted a soft turquoise) accommodation and some meeting rooms are complete. A covered-area for concerts/ films, etc is currently being built but, as the roof had not been firmy fixed, it blew off in the strong winds of the stor, the night before. A quick look at the hospital being built and a new college being built by Augustinians but to be run by the Cenacle and it was back to the bus station for the bus back to Bobo - arriving safely and heading back to the Centre d'Acceuil for the evenng.
Today, obviously, is catching up with this... hopefully, it has given a flavour though the photos will help a lot and fill in in more details when they are uploaded (probably next week I thnk - there are so many it would take too long to sort through them here!) Lunch will be qt Anselme's grandmother's and then hopefully to meet a local catechist at St Vincent de Paul and to the women's prayer this evening...
Hopefully there will be chance to do a little more of this tomorrow though we may got the lake of the sacred fish so that Kathryn can see some local customs. Then a bit ot shopping and the preparations for the return journey... the time goes so quickly now!
So for today, a bientot...
.... oh and about the acclimatisation? Ah - well - you know you are acclimatising when, after the rain, you think things are much cooler - and then read on the thermometer that it is 26°C!
A bientot!
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