Jerusalem continued (2nd entry)

Tuesday 23 October

Tuesday began with a comparatively gentle start – about 8.30 depart.

We were dropped close to the Old City and entered through the Zion Gate. It was rather sad as there was still evidence of artillery fire from conflicts. We were heading for the building in which it was said that the Last Supper was held. This is a very special place as it is in a Jewish compound and in the ground floor there is King David’s tomb. Like a lot of places in the Holy Land, it is unlikely that this is the actual place (Ran said that current archaeological research is close to finding what they believe to be the real tomb in the ancient City of David). But, as is often the case, it is the faith and prayer invested by the people that is the important thing... In the Tomb, the men and women went into different areas. There were a few women praying in the women’s section (where Catherine and Kathryn went) and we used one of the psalms of David.

The Upper Room is just that – and it is above King David’s tomb. This is interesting in itself but the style of the room suggests it is of a much later period than the first century. It also showed signs of having been used as a Moslem place of worship with windows facing south (towards Mecca) and the building still has a Moslem place of prayer at the top: in one building the three monotheistic (belief in one God) faiths are represented. We read Paul’s account of how Jesus had created the Eucharist in an upper room in Jerusalem just before his death – which was even more poignant having been to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

We walked on to the Abbey of the Dormition – the place where Catholics commemorate the belief that Mary was raised to new life – body and soul – immediately after death. It is part of a Benedictine monastery and quite modern. Catherine and Kathryn had agreed to prepare the liturgy and had thought it might be a good idea if people gathered around the altar for the Eucharistic Prayer and especially for the Sign of Peace. The thought for the Mass had come from the experiences of the week so far – and the need to pray for peace between the three faiths who live alongside each other in Jerusalem. They had started with the Magnificat – a highly appropriate Gospel for Mass in that church and thought about the lines about the promises made to Abraham and his descendents forever. Another name for the momotheistic faiths is the Abrahamic faiths – because they all see Abraham as their father. This led to looking back to God’s covenant with Abraham in which God promises that Abraham will be the father of many nations. Then there is the promise in Revelation that – in the days of the Kingdom – there will be a tree in the heart of the Holy City whose leaves will be for the healing of the nations. So much depended on the layout of the church building and so they were amazed to find that Mass was to be celebrated on the sanctuary – with chairs in a semi-circle around the walls... it couldn’t have been better! It went well – and it was good to be able to pray for all the people who work so hard to bring people of faith together rather than use religion as an excuse for hatred and violence.

Downstairs, in the crypt, was an image of Mary sleeping – and many more pictures on the walls around. One in particular attracted us – Our Lady Queen of Apostles. One of the churches in the Three Rivers Pastoral Area to which Holy Cross belongs is Our Lady Queen of Apostles in Bishops Waltham so it was good to have an opportunity to remember the people there – we wrote their name in the prayer intentions book.

There was a bit of confusion about what was to happen next but we were pleased to hear that we could go up to Temple Mount and see the El Aqsa Mosque and Dome of the Rock. We passed the ruins of an old Roman road that would have crossed old Jerusalem and which had been rediscovered because of a mosaic map found in an old church. Then on to the Mosque and the Dome which had been built by the Moslems on top of the platform on which the Temple used to stand. Non-Moslems are not allowed to enter the El Aqsa Mosque but we were able to go to the Dome of the Rock which is a stunningly beautiful building with a golden roof – Ran said with 80 kilos of gold! We listened to a summary of how the early Christians had been content to leave the desolation of the Temple as it was (as it tied in with Jesus’ weeping for the future of Jerusalem) but the Moslems had desired to build their own place of worship in a recognised holy place. We crossed the platform and began to make our way to the Western Wall – the only surviving part of the Second Temple (the one that Jesus would have gone to). We passed the ruins of a wall from the First Temple era – about 1000BC! – which no one is allowed to build over as it is such a rare archaeological site. At the Western Wall, the men and women again went to their own sections (C & K noticed that there seemed to be a lot more women – and a smaller space!). Here they joined Jewish men and women in praying for things closest to their hearts as they have done for century after century.

After a late lunch there was a bit of a debate as to what to do next. The hoped-for visit to Bethlehem had not happened and so it had been suggested that we went to Ein Kerem. This is reputed to be the birth place of John the Baptist and is home to the Church of the Visitation. It was getting late but many people wanted to go there still and so, after 20 minutes or so, arrived in the small town. The church of John the Baptist is very grand and the walls surrounding it have the words of the Benedictus in many different languages. John's father had predicted that John was to go ahead of the Lord and prepare people to hear his message which was to go to all corners of the world. Inside, there was a Mass – we think for people from the Philippines – but we were able to go quietly to the crypt which houses a stone saying that this was the spot on which John was born. Again, we can’t be 100% sure – but faith means that touching that spot somehow connects you to the real one wherever that actually is. We walked on towards the Church of the Visitation but we were a bit too late and realised it was going to be closed. Kathryn was a bit disappointed as her daughter is, of course, Elizabeth and it would have been nice to have said a prayer especially for her in the place commemorating the Elizabeth of the Visitation! We made our way to a space in a car park – having watched a bit of the wedding celebrations in a nearby building. Here we listened to the story of the Visitation and then had a moving solo of a Magnificat sung by Anne – a member of the group from Holy Family parish in Southampton. As the sun was setting – and the tower of the church rested between the trees – it was a very beautiful, spiritual moment – like listening to Mary sing her own Magnificat so many years before.

An early start beckoned – but first, the first proofs of Portsmouth People had to be looked at! The hotel had a pay-as-you-go internet connection – but it seemed to take ages to get all the pages in and printed – indeed the centrespread wouldn’t print at all (too big a file we think!) and two of the pages decided to go via the scenic route round the internet and didn’t arrive until the next day – which was a little scary – but to avoid unnecessary stress at this point, be assured they did arrive in time!

(Photos: http://www.panoramio.com/user/793436)