Monday 3 September 2007

Mount Kenya!

Today we got back from our trip to Mount Kenya!
This was very tiring but also very exciting as Kathryn and I trekked up to 4200m and Elizabeth got even higher - about 4800! The pictures are very big files so we will put more of them up when we get home and can reduce the size a bit. You can find a selection here: http://www.panoramio.com/user/793436

We started in the car park at the Basilica in Nairobi where we had arranged to meet our guide Nicholas. He took us to the matatu stage where we were to find a shuttle for Nanyuki where our adventure was to start. We were very glad he was there to help as it was hectic with crowds of people and lots of drivers asking us if we wanted to go with them!
The one Nicholas chose took us safely to Nanyuki where we found a comfortable hotel (Ibis) in which to have supper and to spend the night.

To give us a bit of acclimatisation - and to satisfy Lizzie's geographer's interest - we popped just down the road to the Equator! There were people showing how water flows down a hole in opposite directions in the different hemispheres (20m either side of the Equator!) and straight down on the Equator itself.

The next morning, Nicholas met us and introduced us to Chris who was to be our cook. This all felt very strange as Kathryn and Lizzie are used to cooking for themselves! But we were very glad that he came along as he prepared some great meals even though we were too tired to finish them!

The first day was a 9km hike to Old Moses Camp. This was where we noticed the higher altitude. Things that looked easy to walk seemed much more difficult! But the camp itself was comfortable - very simple but everything we needed.

The next morning, we set off at 7a.m. It was magical as the sun was just risen and the silence over the mountainside was awesome. The trek itself was 14km and was one of those walks that is a very different measurement on the map from what you walk in real life! There were some very steep climbs and drops and Nicholas (who was also carrying the big rucksack) was very patient and helped Kathryn learn how to deal with some of the steep bits...

To give you an idea it went down to one breath-one step!! But she got there! And "there" was Shipton's Camp - at 4200m (about 13,800ft). This was much colder and like most people, we all went to bed at about 8.30pm - partly to recover from the walk - and partly to get warm!

Unlike most other people, we did not get up at 2am! They were getting up at that time to go up to Point Lenana - one of the more accessible peaks of Mount Kenya - to see the sunrise. As the point of our expedition was not to do the peak but to photograph flowers and plants, we could stay in bed a little longer - though Elizabeth got up at 5am and went with Nicholas to look at some of the lakes and tarns she had read about. She has some stunning shots - on her camera! we'll put some up soon. (As I am writing this, she is busy preparing her Lake Challa samples for posting to the UK tomorrow... they have been drying at Msola - the convent where we are staying)

After another enormous breakfast - eaten under the majestic peak - we started to descend.


This was nearly as hard as going up! At the top, things were slippery because of ice - but then got very slippery because of rain and mountain streams! We were soaked... well, OK the humans were soaked!

The bear was very sensible and stayed tucked inside a rucksack... though still got a wet head when...

it started to rain...
and rain...
and rain...

It was incredible. Being high on the mountain, we could see it coming - and knew that the rain had been bad this year as our hoped for descent route - Chogoria - had been closed because of rain. But seeing it coming was no help when we still had miles to go before getting back to Old Moses Camp. The first spell happened near the end of Mackinders Valley where Chris had set up a stove and prepared noodles and beans under an overhang. It was a bit surreal eating warm food as the rain clouds danced in slow circles before our eyes.

The second spell came when we were in wide-open ground. We were soon all soaked to the skin (well, trousers and feet wise) despite having good gear. And if we'd realised how essential a guide was on our ascent - we realised even more as the mist and cloud swirled around and any paths disappeared under water and mud. Happily, with Nicholas picking out paths and helping us to jump over rushing streams and some of the worst boggy bits, we arrived safely - if plastered with mud and cold and wet. Chris - who had gone on ahead - had a cup of tea ready for us which was most welcome - followed by steaming hot soup.

Our final day, saw us coming down the mountain - a 9km descent back to the Gate. This wasn't too bad - though still slippery from the rain. We saw fairly fresh tracks of elephant and buffalo (Elizabeth saw a leopard print on the way up!) - and a troop of baboons crossed the path at about the same time as we did - but were a bit camera-shy.

A quick stop in Nanyuki and then back to Nairobi where we made enquiries about going to Lakes Nakuru and Naivasha. This was bit more expensive than we can afford so we're thinking about options.
Tomorrow, we are going with Sr Marcelle to a women's cooperative where they make beads and pottery - to the Karen Blixen museum see the house made famous in Out of Africa and a giraffe centre - and possibly the Mwangaza Jesuit spirituality centre where we can find some peace and silence in the midst of it all!

Hopefully, we will get to the other lakes - and take up some of the offers of hospitality that we have received - and have a couple of conversations relating to Kathryn's studies ... and all before heading back on Friday!

Enjoy the selection of photos - here is a reminder of the link: http://www.panoramio.com/user/793436

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